belle jour

Had a great time climbing with Dan and Elodie. Did a few easy sport routes, led 10a Brain Teaser, and worked Narcisus and Pockets of Resistance (both 12a). Did really well on PoR and should have flashed it, but it was damp and I'll do it next time. Narcissus is harder than I thought, but I'll get it sometime this year.

Bad landing...

Had a fun few days at Cooper's working Shadow Boxer (V6). Sent my trad project Upchoucha 12a R. It was pretty exciting but a little scary as the crux protection is pretty sparse - a purple TCU - but we definitely padded out the ankle breaker fall. The route was a big step for me, the hardest trad route I've done previously was a 5.10d so I'm really happy about it. Dan and I have asked around to see if it was a FA, but I don't really care, I'm just psyched to start pushing myself on gear.

New personal bests

I had a nice couple of days bouldering and now I'm going to rest in preparation for our 3 day trip to the New River Gorge. Here's the hit list:
5/6
Ship's Traverse - V5
Short Roof - V5 -->crux jug broke after railing on it, must have been from all the rain and erosion this year, did the FA with the hold gone. This is a gem now without the super sharp pocket, though I will miss that bloody hold.

5/7
Raiders of the Last Tomb - V5+ Got to onsite this guy with a soaking wet crux!
Raider of the Mossed Doom variation - V6, a fun problem restricted to the holds on the right arete next to Last Tomb. My hardest yet.
Pentagon - V7, did all the moves, but too pumped to put it together. I bled all over the crux sloper! This is going to be really hard for me, but I think I could pull it off before I move south.

All and all, a really nice couple of days. I've managed to do well in my second year of medical school while training to get stronger and get out of the plateau I was in for a while without getting to climb much.

fin

Today I did the last problem I wanted to do at Pioneer Rocks before I moved away. It is a pretty steep cave problem (V5/V5+?) with some solid moves on a small, but positive sidepull. It puts a lot of stress on the right arm, but fortunately I had the beta down already and pulled it off 3rd attempt. I was certainly pressed for time since I had about a 20 minute window until it started raining and I'm glad it came together. Pioneer is a nice spot when one doesn't have time to make it to Cooper's, but I'm glad to wrap things up there. I think the Rhino and Fitness are two of my favorite problems anywhere and I'll definitely come back someday when I'm in the area.



Pic: me on said problem.

El presidente

I know I need to start getting so more photos on here....
Crushed George Washington's Nose aka C.O.T.D (ask Dan) V5 in about 5 minutes. Tried Ship's Traverse, that thing is hard, but I can do it when it's not 120 degrees outside.

Another good day

I don't know what has gotten into me as of late, but relative to my usually meager skills, I've been a stone-cold assassin (once again, relative to normal Bill). Today I did a bunch of new problems ALL FIRST TRY! I couldn't believe it, they just keep coming so I kept climbing. Here they are:
V5 Pocket Prow
V5 Crash and Burn (I've worked this one before)
V4 Wet Hoes
V4 Spinal Tap
V4 Orange Problem
V3 Red Problem
V2 Dry Panties

I am really happy about Crash and Burn. I have been working this one since I started climbing three years ago so it has been a long time due for sure. Now that the V5s are falling a lot quicker than they used to I'm going to try to push myself and attempt a few harder problems:
V5+ Bitch Slap
V5+ Raiders of the Lost Tomb
V6 Sloper Dyno
V6 Death Block
V6 Shadow Boxer
V7 Coral

I failed to mention that I sent Extramundane V6 after about 4 solid tries, but had to downgrade it since Twist Dah Hick, Green Block Test Piece, and Crash and Burn are all defiantly more difficult. I still haven't been able to progress on Stick with It V5+ and I have a feeling I'll send my first real V6 before I can do it.

My vitals

My buddy Danno inspired to me monitor my weight over the years...here is medschool...

Date Weight HR BP
1.30.07 143.6 72
3.06.07 145.2 64
7.31.08 153.6 70
9.25.08 151.3 64
10.22.08 150 66 110/70
12.26.08 146.8 70 112/68
1.28.09 142.8 74
1.31.09 141.4 72
2.9.09 140 72
4.9.09 140.4 64 116/56
17-Apr 139 74 110/68
22-Apr 137.4 75 118/54


I thought this was interesting. Notice how my weight does a pyramid as I get use to being married/studying all the time.
Bill

Pwnage

Today was my best day ever for bouldering. I did 3 new V5's today at Coopers, Roundhouse, Green Block Test Piece, and Helicopter. Today was a reeealllly good day. Now time to study non-stop for 3 more days until my last real exam.

slacker

I know I've not been keeping up with this, but I'll make an update of our Trip to Red Rocks/Joshua Tree/Yosemite after this exam next week.

Training Routine

This is for Elodie as requested and anyone else looking for a hangboard routine.

So 4 months ago I wasn't in very good shape as I've spent most of my time studying this year and haven't got to climb much.

Step 1: Initial Strength Training
-I think the most important thing is to access your baseline so you can monitor your progress
-I started by doing 100 pull ups on handboard jugs 3/4 a week just to increase basic upper body strength. I could only do 12 PU's max when I started, so I would just do as many sets as it took to do a total of 100 reps. I would rest for 2 minutes between sets and then rest for 5-10 mins after 3 or 4 sets. I did this for a month and focused mostly on reducing the amount of time that I rested.
-Next I worked on increasing the number of reps in a set. I worked on this till my max was 20 pullups (~7 weeks) still utilizing the jugs. Once I was able to do 100 PUs in only 6 sets I finished my pull up routine.

Step 2:
-Now that I developed some basic strength I want to focus that to climbing. The best thing I could do would be boulder or climb at the gym w/ my weighted vest, but once again, I am limited in time.
-I started by adding a 10 pound vest and then would do 8-12 pull ups on various holds of increasing difficulty. Big edge, mid, big pocket, mid, slopers, little edge. After completing that I would work on the grips that I am weak at, open handed edges and sloper.
-Once this routine became easier I added another 10 pounds in a book-bag. I may add another 10, but I weigh 140ish so I will try not to exceed 20% of my weight since I want to stay skinny.

Step 3:
-Lockoffs are a more important skill to train than pull-ups as they translate better to success at crux moves. This is the current stage of my training. I add 10 pounds and do 10-15 second lock offs w/ each arm. I do this until I'm fried and then I take off the 10 pounds and do it some more. When I get too tired (or if you aren't quite strong enough to do a single arm lock off) then use both arms, but position your body weight under the arm you desire to train so that it maintains a greater load, then switch sides after 10-20 secs.

Step 4:
- Get off the stinking hangboard and go boulder. Now that winter is almost over I won't be training indoors much and will try to boulder, even if it is only for 20 mins.

Note: The number one message you should get from this is to make sure you know your own strengths and weaknesses. If you aren't experienced enough to determine this then ask a friend or veteran climber. Footwork is usually not my problem, but if it is yours, like many new climbers, you are better off spending your time climbing outside or at the gym. Don't worry about training for strength, just learn from the rock and other climbers.

I'm only beginning to learn that your mind is the most important tool for climbing. Breathing, pacing, decoding sequences, and staying focused/relaxed are more important weapons then a one armed pull up or ridiculous grip strength.

Mission almost Accomplished

I know the "tick list" posts aren't that interesting, but this blog is really just a journal for me and here to share with friends if they are interested.

Sloper Problem V3/4 - Flash
Entrance Corner problem V4 - X
Overhanging Sloping thingie V2 - X
Overhanging cave problem V5/6 - []
- Done all the moves, just need to link the crux with the easy finish. I could have done it had I not used energy on the aforementioned V4 with a bit of a crimpy start. I'll complete this project when I get back from Red Rocks (don't want to get hurt before the big trip!). When I do, I think this will be the hardest problem I've climbed.

That is the last one I want to do at pioneer and when it happens I can be satisfied at never coming back. Of course it always fun to have a run on the Rhino and Fitness, but it feels good to sort of "master" an little bouldering area. I'm sure there are certainly other problems to be had, but I just feel content at this point.

I'm definitely ready to start bouldering at Cooper's as soon as the gate opens! I have a date with Crash and Burn, Shadow-boxer, and a few other classics.

pirate style

So yesterday I did my first one-arm pull up. It wasn't a fake wrist grab pull up, it was a genuine one-arm pull my body up and cry like I just found out I have the herpes. It wasn't very pretty, but it shows that my training is actually paying off. Not that I am training to do pull ups, but it might help to be a little stronger.

Amanda was super sweet and bought me a 10 lbs vest (on sale!) for working out without me even asking her to do so. She is too considerate!

I'd prefer to start training for endurance on my hangboard when I don't have time to get outside so if anybody has any suggestions on a routine I would love the input.

Fitness

It is appropriate that due to my current fitness level, the strongest and lightest I have ever been in my life, I was finally able to do the Pioneer Rock problem "Fitness". It was almost a letdown because it really felt incredibly easy. Mind you, this is problem I have tried a couple of times every year for three years. I'm really surprised it actually took this long to do the last few moves, but I never really spent much time at Pioneer. Problems that used to really necessitate effort are now warm ups. I'm just excited to see some progress from the mindless winter training I've been doing on my hangboard.

There really are only 2 more problems left there that I'd like to do before I leave. A steep, but doable overhanging shorty and a Danno sloper problem . I'm really glad we are moving south this summer, because I think I would be getting very bored in terms of local climbing by the time fall came around. Cooper's Rock is bountiful, but I'm hopeful to send the rest of my projects there and be ready to move on to the New for two years.

Pic: The classic Rhino at Pioneer

Pure Ecstasy

I learned some valuable lessons this weekend.

1. Never climb at Seneca in the winter
2. If you climb multi-pitch the winter, wear comfy shoes and socks underneath.
3. Never climb multi-pitch in the winter.
4. Never climb the south-end of Seneca in the winter.
5. At Seneca PG means G, and G means PG.
6. If you are climbing in the winter, don't ask your friends where they want to climb if they are going to say Seneca.
7. Seneca sucks in the winter.

picture above :Me having anchortastic fun on Ecstasy.
Below : Richard gearing up for Ecstasy Jr.

As ye rip. so shall we sew.

My latest project is "SEW SPECIAL". I made this belay seat for Ricky and my big wall experience at Red Rocks. I used hemp fabric, 1 inched tubular webbing, and my wife's sewing machine. Next project will be a chalk pot that costs less than $5 to make.

Expect more updates after this week's exam.

Tradtastic

I failed to mention that I finally tried a semi-tough (well, for me) tradition route at the New. It was Realignment (5.10d) at Junkyard which is actually a variation of the classic line The Entertainer (5.10a) dubbed after that fun ragtime/ice cream truck tune. Both lines are uber high quality and I was fortunate to get the onsight on both. I have only tried a few 10a's up until this point so it was a nice jump for me. Hopefully this experience can continue to cultivate some confidence and I won't be afraid to push myself a little harder in "tard" climbing.

Pic: gearing up for a summer run on Four Sheets to the Wind (5.9+)

President Obama

Sorry, I've been so busy running my campaign for a write-in president that I haven't been able to post.

On the horizon:

1. Coopers w/ Dan

Love,
Bill

Roadside Distraction

I wish I had blackmail pics of the mess we left on Roadside attraction (5.7) at the Red River Gorge. Dan V. was supposed to second the route, but he decided it would be easier just to climb it and leave half the gear in various features much to the delight of Dan Braysack who got to clean up the mess. He got a free pizza out of it and I got all of my cams. Admittedly I place one #3 too tight but luckily it came out just as the sun completely set. Nothing like hiking out in pitch black!

We had a few nice days at the Red. We all got to climb some moderates. I onsighted my first 11 at the Red (Touch of Grey 11a) and surprisingly got my butt kicked on Ro Shampoo (12a). I was feeling a little sick that day and I look forward to coming back stronger and cruising it. I did get to see some dude fall 50 feet off the anchors, about 5 feet off the deck. Nice belay, not.

Pics: Dan on Ro, Me on start of Roadside Attraction and Ro

Another One Bites the Dust

Vincent and I added about 10 new problems to the bouldering area I've been developing. That puts us at around 50 with room for 100+ easily. On a bad note a catapiller got stuck in my hiking boot and stung me for 7 minutes before I finally took off my shoe! I thought my foot was burning from wearing the climbing shoes all day! Oh and I finally added people to the list-serve thingie, let me know if this annoys you...

The Fall of Man

Fall is here, FINALLY. My wife has jumped the gun and decorated according to the season already, but I never really feel like fall is here until the leaves are turning and I have to wear a jacket in the morning. Well both of the qualifiers have been fulfilled on this lovely September day.

My buddy Danno is staying with me with his French friend Elodie (who made dinner for us!) and we did our normal circuit at Tilted Tree. Dan did his photo thing and we discussed the percentage of copyright claim I can make to the photos on his camera. When he said 0% I "accidently" threw his very expensive camera off a 20 foot cliff into a large boulder, crushing any hopes for photos for the day, not to mention the photo bum's livelyhood....not really, but keep this scenerio in mind next time Braysack....pic is Twist Da Hick (V5)

Wall-E 2.0

QUESTION: Bill why do you have a ton of wood in your guest room?
ANSWER: Because I am a retard. And I guess two months later, I will make a new training wall.

It is complete. This should hold me off till Amanda and I have a bigger house and I can construct a wall out from her hair (figuratively, not literally, though I'll look into it). Oh yeah, I put V's pad there just to be a jerk.

Next step will be to add some pinches and figure out how best to attach my hangboard while maintaining the campus rails...if you have any ideas or advice, comments are welcome...

Rope-Lash

B and V went to NRG...actually Summersville for the last hoorah of summer. I worked Narcissist (12a) and got my butt kicked and Vince, did some new climbs and fought his personal nemissis and got a nice rope burned leg as proof of the battle.

Summit Time!

Wow, we had so much fun, and words wouldn't do it justice. At pitch #2 of Conn's West I just had a neat feeling in my stomach that let me know we were doing something special. I really like the multi-pitch thing and can't wait to do it again!

Noobs

Richard and I had groovy day at Rock City with a TON OF PEOPLE. I was pysch'd to see DJ and his friends, but there were way too many hommies for my liking. I don't really like climbing with a bunch of people as I go outdoors to get away from the normal calamities of life, and there was a pair of real douche-bags! Some people just don't know how to interact with their species.

Sure is a Beauty...

Well, it isn't a picture of us...,but it is of my friend Steve on Journey to the Center of the Brain (5.7) which Vincent got to onsight on our trip. We had a nice relaxed day of climbing besides one stinking 10d (Pickney's Route) that gets me every time! We led a bunch of easy trad routes at the very end of Beauty, (10 min walk) climbed a few around the Brain and did some scouting for future trad-ventures. I was quite impressed with "You want it, you got it (5.9)" and Trip had some fun on it as well. Daniel did his first trad lead on Potato Chip 5.6 and even managed to get a #5 BD stuck! I didn't know that was even possible, and of course Vincent was the one who had to clean it.

Note to self, Beauty has got more Poison Ivy than the Dutch have dikes! Scratch, scratch, scratch...

I do enjoy the woods

B V & G climbed our first trad/RBH at Underhill Alley called "When things Die" 5.7 . And then we hiked out on a nice humid day to meet medical student to climb, who never showed up! We spent the rest of the day at Sunset Wall and I got my first bail cam (.5 BD) on Zig-Zag Wanderer. It took and hour and I bought Vincent a 6-pack for his patience. Good day and Richard taught me a few tricks about setting up top-rope. Ended the day with some Rock Band, Beer, and Crown Royale.

Speaking of wood....check out this neat mechanical calculator.
http://woodgears.ca/marbleadd/index.html

Rain out?

Another beautiful day of bouldering at Coop's is stymied by Thor the thunder-god. At least the VA's and BA's will get to go on a nice hike at Seneca.

I lied...it has dried up and I did get to pound some rock. Work Ship's Prow (V5) at Rock City and relearned the valuable LESSON: strength is no substitution for good footwork...and don't forget to breath!

That problem is sweet, but defiantly not my style. I've been trying to branch out and do more overhanging routes to get strong and learn those specific techniques.

Deep Water Soloing

Yesterday I went to Summersville with Vincent, Richard, and DJ to climbing and water boulder. We set sights for easier climbing at Orange Oswald where the guys all added ticks to lead climbing. I didn't get a chance to climb Narcissus (12a), but I did onsight everything I climbed and hope I can onsight the entire Orange Oswald area.

We had a ton o' fun water bouldering at Whippoorwill though we didn't do the whole traverse as I hoped. However, we did have some time without boats around so we got to climb up a bit and jump which is always a hoot! Nothing like getting a butt-hole full of water when your jump is little shy of a 10. Speaking of Olympics, there are some odd sports that are recognized...come on, does badminton really desire equal representation with events like the marathon or curling (a REAL sport).

2008 Goals

2008 Goals:
1. One of my goals this year is to lead at least 15 Trad route rated at 5.9+ or up.
-I'm at 5 with Werewolf (5.10a) at Bubba, and the Layback (5.9+) at Bridge, and Entertainer (5.10a) , Four Sheets to the Wind (5.9+) at Junkyard, and Out of Mind (5.10a) at Beauty.
2. Want to lead more 5.12 sport routes
3. Boulder V6
4. Develop 100 Boulder problems at Underhill and surrounding areas.
-About 35 so far I think, not too shabby and I've seen potential for greater than 75 just in the main area!

Goal #3 is probably the most lofty, but I think the others are doable. These goals are not to make climbing a job, but to continue to push myself and enjoy the challenges ahead.

First Post

Took Richard to Underhill for the first time. He climbed Concerning Hobbits and I put up another climb next to Tried and Died. Going climbing tomorrow with V and III. Hopefully traffic will be minimal at Orange Oswald...I'm pumped to go deep water soloing as well!

By the way...comments are welcomed and encouraged on this blog..don't worry I will modify them in order to bring the most praise/exaltation towards my being.

Kill Your Boss

Danno and I worked on developing more at Underhill Entrance and Alley. Wanker scared himself up Cloverleaf and we cleaned up Sunni Side Up. Vincent met up with us and we ended up adding quite a few new problems including the Kill Your Boss Arete, Water Brush problem (WIRE BRUSH, WIRE BRUSH!!!), Tourette's Arete, Anal Wink and others. Need to do some work to clean up Peanut Butter Sludge (nice name Amanda).

I've been feeling pretty strong and can't wait to work on some 12's this fall.

NRG all alone?

Drove down to NRG by myself with the hopes of meeting up with some homeboys and girls. Ended up climbing with Katelyn and Zack on Friday at Kaymoor. I did the obligatory warm up on Flight of the Gumby (5.9) and preceded to work Lost Soul (11d/12a) with Thomas as he met up with us. I got my butt kicked and had to hang 3 or 4 times, but defiantly made some progress on my 2nd go and did every move without too much rest. There is no one hard move, it is more just a slightly overhanging pump fight to the top. Not my style, but this is what I've been training for and it felt like it was within my grasp.

Saturday I spent a lot of time driving around to the Gauley looking for camping sites, went to the White Wall and the Hanger to see the progress and then went to Whippoorwill where I water bouldered alone. Later went to Junkyard and met up with some random climbing guides of Jim Taylor (known as the self appointed bolt police, I don't really have an opinion yet). They seemed okay and I led the Entertainer (5.10a) and climbed Four Sheets to the Wind (5.9+)....